To fix the existing liner is going to be a difficult process considering the complicated angles and curb areas to cover.

Well Rob, your not going to like my answer, but this is what you should have done.

You would have been better off using a Schluter Kerdi drain so that you could do the sloped mortar bed in one shot. The use of the Kerdi membrane for the water proof layer would be much easier to do than trying to seal the pvc liner around those angles and up over the curb.

The other option would be the use of a liquid waterproof membrane over the mortar bed as described above. Laticrete HydroBan works great for all those weird angles without any excess build ups.

Same membranes can easily be used for the seat areas.

Just out of curiosity, why are the glass block curbs so high?

I agree with RC. Hydroban the whole thing with a Kerdi drain. Easiest method for a DIY'er as long as adding a few days to the project isn't a problem.

The curb the glass blocks are going to sit on has to be that height in order for the bottom of the fourth course to plane out at the right height when it reaches the height of the pony wall on the far right. The end of the vanity cabinet will be up against this wall and I want the bottom of the forth course of blocks to be 1/8th inch higher than the counter top of the vanity. I will caulk this joint with silicone caulk.

Thank you so much for your help. I have gone on-line to look at both the Kerdi and the Laticrete HydroBan and I have decided that the HydroBan will be the easiest at this point. Mostly because I can still use the existing drain assembly I already have installed and the ease to make sure all nooks and crannies can be covered/filled with the HydroBan. I will move forward in this direction unless someone can convince me otherwise.

I see my next steps as…

1. remove the Oatey Liner
2. install wall and bench Hardi cement board
3. Curb – I was going to use lathe and mortar mix to create the curb but now with the use of HydroBan, it looks like all I need to do is apply a thin coat of thinset to the wood (This will fill any unevenness/small voids and add to the bonding of the cement board to the wood. I would do this on the bench as well), and then screw ½” Hardi cement board to the sides and top.
4. Finish all joints in the Hardi cement board with mesh tape and thinset.
5. Install the mortar bed. What should I use for the mortar bed that will go over and bond to the pre-slope floor I already have installed? The pre-slope I installed was made with Topping sand, which I added play sand to so as to have a ratio of approximately 5 parts sand and 1 part Portland.
6. Clean all surfaces and apply the HydroBan as per instructions.
7. After HydroBan is dry, apply thinset, tiles, and grout.
8. Should I apply sealer over tile and grout before I build glass block wall on top of it?
9. Finish with building the glass block wall.
10. Apply Silicone caulk to tile/vinyl window perimeter.


That’s one tasty looking beer you have. It would sure be cool to have a summer time get together somewhere this summer. Maybe get Schluter Kerdi, Laticrete, and others alike sponsor it with vender booths and of course the beer garden.

Rob

Kman, thanks for your reply as well. I'm assuming I can still use the existing drain assembly with the Laticrete HydroBan. ? What do I need to do to be able to still use it? Looks like I just need to seal the weep holes and it probably wouldn't hurt to silicone the two pieces together so that no water will wick or seep in between the two parts and promote that nasty pink mold.
Rob

To use a clamping style drain with a liquid water proofing membrane you need to go with the divet method. It's a bit complicated to explain without drawings, but esentially you add another 2" mortar bed on top of the one you have, leaving a 10 inch pan shaped depression around the drain. Then waterproof it all, leaving the weep holes open. Then place a few tile spacers or gravel over the weep holes to keep them free and fill in the depression with mortar. then tile over that.

I am concerned that you will run into wood shrinkage issues with that many 2x4s stacked up. If moisture can escape from the wood, it will eventually shrink down about 1/4 inch on that many sticks. I dry my curb lumber for a couple of years before using it, or use torn out old stuff from renos. since you are using liquid water proofing, you can just cover the curb with cement board and waterproof that.

seal your tile after the blocks are on.

I ran into a problem today studing the instructions for divot install with Hydro Ban. Here is the link to the directions. http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/DS6635_IMPROVED.pdf
Check out detail pictures 1 & 2 on sheet 4. Here is what the instructions say pertaining to detail 1 and detail 2:


***I don’t get this!!! They say to use a two part drain with clamping ring. The clamping ring has horizontal and vertical weep holes in it. The horizontal weep holes run inward toward the vertical weep holes. The horizontal weep holes are on the bottom side of the clamping ring, RIGHT WHERE THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY TO PLACE THE LATICRETE LATASIL, WHICH IS A SILICONE SEALANT THAT WILL BLOCK/SEAL THE WEEP HOLES!!! ??? And to add to the confusion, their Detail 2 shows no weep hole (weepers, as they call them) on the Drain Clamping Ring.

Unless someone can tell me different and explain why… I will just leave out the silicone sealant on the bottom of the Drain Clamping Ring.

Your thoughts?
Rob

I'm not sure that I get their instructions either. Usually the weep holes are about 1/2 inch away from the rim of the clamping ring and a small bead of sealant can be added outside of the weep holes when you clamp the two halves together.

the bottom line is that water has to have a place to escape and the weep holes absolutely can not be blocked. Since the exact design of drains varies, you will have to just use common sense.

If the bottom half of the drain unit is flush with the mortar and then the mortar and drain are waterproofed, then any sealant on the top half seems unnecessary.

Otherwise the diagram is a good one and you can see how it's supposed to work.

Schluter drains are so much easier in this regard, but I can see how spending another hundred dollars and ripping out the existing drain might be an big pain in the B.

Thanks for the input pistolpete. Here is a picture of the drain my plumber installed. I don't know what the brand name is but the top of the clamp ring says "ABS (BLACK) FIG NO 5850" and across from that on the same side it says "PVC (WHITE) FIG NO 4850". Sence the bottom half of the drain is level with the bottom of my divot, and sealed with Haydro Ban, I don't see what the point is to have a silicone caulk sealling the bottom side of the clamp ring to the top side of the Hydro Ban. This will only block the horizontal weep holes. These weep holes can be seen in the attached picture. Rob
Dang it! I'm not use to this site yet. I don't see where I can add a picture to my post. Sorry. I thought I could add pitures of my project as the project develops. Is that for a differant section on this site?

sorry, can't help you with techie stuff.