Hello. I put a New Heat matt in my bthroom concrete floor that is un-insualted. It's brand new and I'm having trouble stoking it up to warm tempertures. I set it forr 100 and the warmest i could get was 77..-79. Could it be posible there is not enough power for the unit? I haven't talked to my electrician yet but I need some good acvice from here so I can ask questions. Can you get different breakers for more power?

You will never get the so called max temperature from any electric floor heat system due to heat loss and substate thermal resistance.
There's nothing you can do to the electrical system to cause any changes to the final radiant temperatures. DO NOT mess with the existing set up!

BTW industry acceptable floor temperatures for radiant heat are 66 to 84 degrees.

Nu-Heat is a tile warmer, not a full radiant heat type system. Your temperatures are well with in acceptable specs.

Tiled the Nu heat floor. She now comes up to 83 degree's so I'm happy with that in Canada. Feels good under foot. Thanks guys for the Input.

I have looked into several electric heating companies including Nu-Heat. Is this the most popular and successful design. This felt type mat which holds the wire, requires essentially 2 layers of thinset, one under and the other overtop of the mat. Does this result in an overly thick thinset between the subfloor and the tile? I have prepared my sub floor with a plywood base topped with 1/2" cementboard.

Hello Shower Guy. With the Mat it does not require an overly thick thinset. My mat over the unheated slab is working just fine.

Wedi is a great product I can tell, I use it in the past, today I got new product called Ez-BakerBoard abut 2lb per sheet 3x 5 and today price is abut what was the wedi price in 2006

You right people still get scare by the price, I don’t see it used or sold near the hardi backer or other cement boards, but it dose take some share of the market, and it getting slowly and surely in to the market.

I believe the price will be drop when the manufactures see the potential of selling more for less profit.

I just checked out the Ez-Backer board manufacturers website, and it looks like a good product. There are actually several of these types of products out there, and in testing have outperformed all other products used to thermally isolate a slab from a radiant system. So, now we have Wedi, Bonsal Pro-Panel, and Custom Building Products Easy-Board, and now (Thanks Motti!) EZ Backer Board! Awesome!
I would like anyones feedback on using this product! Thanks!

I finally found some EZ Board for sale at Dal-Tile. It's about $14-$15 a sheet, so about 50% more than Hardi. For a small job, I guess the difference in price wouldn't be much, but for a big floor, most people aren't going to pay for it.

The saving is much greater when the job spec called for waterproofing, then you only need to waterproof the board joint.

I don’t see this product sold as much as standard cement board or hardi baker, but it dose take his share of the market and it dose increase his percents of the market, a big fact is the price drop a bit from last year, and the hardi baker price got up.

Another big factor, is the delivery cost of this product is much cheaper as a pallet weight only about 80 LBS ( not include the pallet) while hardi baker weight about 440 lbs,

Important note: I never look in to if this product safe to use with floor heating, first thought, I don’t think it is, but I sure will check on it soon.

Showerguy

If what you have looked require floating the mat in cement, just go for the SunTouch, with SunTouch mat or the WarmWire spool you install the tile as you cover the mat with thinset, one step installation.

I'm also about to put in a radiant system over an un-insulated slab. I don't think I've gotten a clear picture about what is the best route to take, and the best product to use. Some more questions... for those up to the challenge!

1) What company's system (Nu Heat, Sun Touch, True Comfort [only in Canada?], Easy Heat, etc) is most suitable for this un-insulated concrete slab? Perhaps they all would lose heat equally down into the slab below?

2) If you use a cable system, I assume you end up with a thicker mortar bed to conceal it vs. a thin mat system, thus raising the overall finished height of the tile. Correct?

3) I belive NuHeat is put onto a very think layer of mortar, then a layer of mortar is spread over it for the tile. Cable systems (ie. True Comfort) need to be encased in a thicker layer of mortar, before another coat for the tile bed. The cable route seems a little cheaper out of the box, but are you spending way more $ on extra mortar to make it work?

Thanks very much (in advance!)