It seems lately I've read more and more about denshield. I have used this product for wet areas such as showers, etc..It seems to be a good product when done properly for these areas. I've recently done some work for a General contractor(new client) where he uses this product on floors. He will screw down the 1/2" denshield to his plywood to create a smooth surface for me to tile directly over the denshield(new kitchen/dinning area..main floor).I've mentioned to him to skimcoat the floor with 3/16 V notch then laying denshield over the wet cement then screwing the denshield. Has anyone else used this procedure, should I stay away from it??
Ron

Densheild is drywall with a vinyl coating over it. Since I have to warranty my work, I won't use the stuff....especially on floors. It seems to work just fine on walls, when you follow the instructions and seal up any spot that water might get behind the surface coating...but that in itself is pretty scary really. On floors, if there is a plumbing leak or what ever, and water gets into the core of Denshield...it will fail(been there, done that) The surface can delaminate from the core, and if there is movement, the core will soften. They like to show a test of how it can sit in water and not get soft...but I know from experience, that it will, if you create movement.(like walking over it while there is moisture in it). Denshield has it's place I guess. I personally don't think a floor is one of them.

Couldn't agree more Brian.

i'm not a trades person, just an average home owner, but i have lately been working with denshield.

my thoughts:

pros:
- very easy to work with, do not need special expensive tools (like cement board saw).

cons:
- after reading many posts about denshield, my confidence level is low. for piece of mind i am applying redgard over all the seams and screw holes (first put fiberglass mesh tape, mortar, then redgard). i wish i didn't have to spend the extra $100 for this step, but i felt scared.

Like Brian said "been there, done that"
It turns to mush when the core gets wet, no matter what anyone says.

Builders love the stuff because they can have their hack drywall subs install it while they are doing the rest of the house.

Save yourself the trouble with DensShield and start using Hardibacker cement board.

Thank's for the reply's. It confirms my thoughts on Denshield. I have used Durock many times in the past(RC, I believe it's the same as hardibacker, or is there a difference). When using Durock for showers or tub enclosures, I have used "mapeielastic" with fibreglass mesh to cover any nail/screw holes and seams, is this process okay. It's not a cheap product but I don't cut corners, needs to be done right in order to not have to return. I will also use the "ultraflex 2" cement on floors instead of saving a few buck's on a lessor grade cement.
Ron

Ron, Hardibacker and Durock are two different types of cement board. Hardi is lighter and easier to handle, most cuts are done with a utilty knife and it does not leave any grit droppings on tubs etc.
The big problem is cutting small pcs.(small pcs can not be scored and snapped)
For actual cement board I prefer to use Permabase. It takes screws easier than Durock.

Thank's Randall,
I will look into the Hardibacker, is it readily available at most places? I don't like to work with durock, heavy, awkward, crumbles, etc..So if you cut hardi with a utility knife does it work like denshield but just a better product?

Ron

Unfortunately Hardie is not available at lumber yards or the Depot. Check some of your local tile shops or drywall supply outlets.

Hardi is more difficult to snap because its a fibre/cement board. Like Durock it's tough to drive screws into. I find it easier to use galvanized roofing nails.

As most of the walls I do are over acrylic tubs or shower pans I find the Hardie better as it will not scratch the acrylic surfaces or leave grit everywhere. A couple of scratches and the next thing you know your working for free.

Thank's for the info, I will shop around for hardie, anything would be easier than using durock.

Ron

I've been using hardie for several years now, I like it much better than Durock or Permabase. It's not anywhere near as messy, it's easier to handle and easier to cut. I use a grinder with a four inch masonry blade. I did find out something about it the other day. I put it around a fireplace and the only screws that were around were the type that used a #2 square head bit. The screws went right in without the slipping I have with a phillips. The only thing to watch out for on Hardie is not to get to close to the corner with the screws. When the screw head goes in, the corner of the board will break off, and more often than not, the corner will be pushed up, causing a little bump in the floor. Hardie with screws or screw shank nails is all I use anymore.

A couple of things to remember, when fastening Hardi keep them 3/8" away from edges and 2" from the corners. If you score-cut with either hand tool or side grinder, you first score the face then you snap UP, not down as you'd be inclined to do.

Jaz

Hello everyone, new member here. I am a tile and stone subcontractor in colorado. I was interested to see some reviews on denshield(sp)it definitely does not seem like a product i would use ANYWHERE due to the gypsum core. In wet areas it requires more prep to completely waterproof, and as a floor substrate it must have a lower compressive strength than durock or hardi? I've seen it used more in this area, to my dismay. It may , however, be a step up from green board. I wont set to either. Anyone have anything good to say about this product?

It's easy to cut.

It's easy to cut.

That's too funny, guys! My sentiments exactly.