We had a Jacuzzi installed about 6 months ago. I’m including several pictures below of the installation. The framing of the tub was done using 2x6” studs. The contractor met with the tile person that we chose and prepared the framing for installation of the tile. The tile contractor asked that plywood be installed over the framing and be screwed every 9” and he also gave the general contractor the dimensions to use between the tub lip and the surface that the tile was supposed to be installed on.

Now comes the problem, it is six months later and the tile has cracked around about 3/4ths of the tub. The cracks are parallel to the edge of the tub and about 2” from the tub lip. The tile contractor now claims that it is not his fault, that the framing must have shifted. The framing was inspected on several occasions by the building inspector who paid particular attention to the framing and the subfloor as he know the weight that must be supported. The gap around the tub has stayed consistent. The gap between the tub lip and the tile was grouted by the tile contractor and it has separated from the tub and some of it has fallen out.

One issue I have noted is that when they inserted the tile under the lip of the tub, they did not cut it but left whole tiles which overhang the supporting surface under the tub by about 1 inch and in some places more. I believe this may be a key factor in the tile failing. I’ve included a picture of the overhang.

Framing around tub:




Overhang of tile:



Cracks in tile (just one area):



What it looked like when finished:

Hi Rich
What did they use for backerboard? Did they install tile directly to the plywood?
Also ... look at the 2"x 6" used to construct the frame (especially in front of the plumbing). Even after the plywood is installed there could very well be movement there, especially considering that it was only fastened every 9".

No grout should be used there because it will cause direct weight upon the tile. There should be a flexible material used such as silicon. The tile you've used is a wall tile not meant to support much weight.

The over hanging tiles isn't really an issue.

The biggest issue is did they use some kind of backerboard over the plywood and not using grout to fill between tub and tile.

Rich, if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing, it looks from the 1st photo as if the tub lip doesn't rest on the framing at all (at least on the two sides visible in the picture). Even if the plywood overhangs the framing a little, then the weight of the tub is pushing down on the edge of the tile that has little or no support. From what I see, the weight of the tub has snapped the tile where the edge of the framing is.

And Harry is correct, there should have been some backerboard. But even if he had used some, the tile would still crack if the tub lip is not supported by the framing, as well as from underneath the tub itself.

Which brings up another point, is the underside of the tub supported by mortar, expanding foam, or something similar? The weight of the tub filled up shouldn't rest only on the tub lip.

The tile was installed directly to the plywood that was screwed to the 2x6 framing. I think Harry has the answer, the grout under the lip of the tub caused pressure on the tile which caused it to crack. The tub installation manual indicates that the tub lip should not support the weight of the tub. There is an extensive metal framework under the tub to support it. There is no recommendation to use mortar or expanding foam under the tub. The support legs are supposed to be screwed to the floor, which they were. The plywood support for the tile did extend under the lip of the tube but the tile extended beyond that.

In the picture that shows the tile with the pipe, the tile was actually touching that pipe and that tile developed a wide crack due to the contact with the pipe.

My thoughts are to remove the tile surrounding the tub and then have a layer of cement applied. This should not go under the tub lip. Then apply the tile but do not extend the tile under the lip. Then use a flexible material to seal the connection between the tub and the tile. What do you think?

There should have been one more verticle stud in front of the plumbing.

Make sure your plumbing fixture trims will fit if you add the extra layer of cement board. The way yours is roughed in, I doubt you will have enough thread exposed for the trims once another layer is introduced. The rough-in should be attached to the plywood layer to allow the extra height needed for a cement board installation.

The pipe has nothing to do with your tile cracking.
The framing and tile combination was set too high and the tub when filled would have been supported by the lip,causing too much pressure on the thin tile.

What's the material on the front of the tub? Beadboard?

Could be that the 2x6 warped,expanded,contracted...whatever...and caused the tile to be under stress.Grouting the gap between tile and tub wasn't a good idea.I agree that there should have been more vertical framing the prevent the 2x6 from twisting.
Tiling directly on plywood also adds to the stress exerted on the tile.

The area by the plumbing certainly has a wider gap between supporting studs but that area did not crack. The tiles cracked where the greatest support was, in the pictures, at the far end. Basically the cracks began halfway down the the front, around the end and halfway up the back side. The closest half o f the tub in the picture doesn't have cracked tile. The gap between the tub lip and the tile is slightly less in the cracked area but is still above the tile by about 1/8 inch or more. The front half is probably 3/16 inches, not much different but some. I think I come back to the grout between the tile lip and the tile. I think there must have been pressure there.

Rather than cement board, I thought they could use some wire mesh with a thin coat of cement to keep the thickness less. I certainly don't want to just put the tile down over the plywood again.