Greetings;
First Item: I purchased some sturdy chicken wire-can this be used for the support mesh under the first layer of cement and the tarpaper that has been suggested?
Secondly; I intend to use Quickrete Type "S" Mortar Mix for the first layer of the shower base using an acrylic additive. Should I use just the additive, or use a mixture of a little water and the additive?
Should I use this product for the final layer on top of the membrane I intend to install or something different?
Thanks,
Kevin

Use Sand-Mix with water for your top layer.
Mortar-Mix is fine for the pre-sloped bed with either water or latex additive.
I usually use mortar-mix with additiive for the pre-slope when I'm tapering very thin around the drain ... otherwise I'll use sand-mix for that as well.

visit:
http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

Thanks, Harry;

Some more thoughts-
I have constructed two (2) 6" X 8" columns that form the partial doorway to the shower. This is where the door will hang. I intend to place 1/4" durorock on these. Will I need corner beads, and if so, what type to use on this application.
Also-you mentioned using a non-alkaline tape for the durorock seams. What does one use (if anything) to tape between them, or is the thinset enough to seal up the seams?
Thanks,
Kevin

Anyone have any thoughts on the above questions??

You should be using 1/2" durock for vertical surfaces Kevin, also taping with mesh non-alkaline tape and thinset is required where ever backerboards join.
Mesh tape and mortar is fine for the corners although corner bead may also be used. It is usually easier to create a better corner without the obstruction of a corner bead.

Hi Mike;
Any reason why I can't use 1/4" durorock if I'm using 1/2" greenboard as a base?
I do intend to use 1/2" on the floor to offer more support.
Pls advise.
Thanks,
Kevin

Cementboard requires a vapour barrier behind the panels which you would not be able to do if you use greenboard ... meaning you WILL have to waterproof.
Using 1/2 on the floors does nothing to support or strengthen your floor which is why the manufacturers suggest using 1/4" for the floors. .... 1/2" should be used for walls, 1/4" just isn't enough material regardless of the backerboard behind it.

Hi Harry;
Someone advised that I should use roofing tarpaper between the greenboard and the backerboard. Thanks for the tip on the floor-I was going to reverse the sizes, but will stick w/my original decision and your advise.
Kevin

'Evening, all...
This is from the custom shower pictorial:
"The General Contractor has installed the cement board leaving a gap between the bottom edge of the board and the liner. This will ensure there is no wicking of moisture up into the backer board."
I am uncertain what will fill the gap between the top of the tiles to the bottom of the durorock board. Am I to figure out the heighth of the thinset/tile and make sure it ends right underneath the durorock?
Should the tile go under the durorock to the sidewall where the PVC liner ?
Thanks for your help...Kevin

There should be about a half-inch gap between the CBU and liner. This is visible before the final slope is installed. After you install the final slope, the gap is no longer visible since the slope should be two or three inches thick at that point. Then the floor tile goes on the final slope, then the wall tile.

Some installers like to install the wall tile before the floor tile, doesn't matter which you do.