I'm replacing a tub&shower unit with a walk-in shower and need some advice. This is my first attempt at this type of project and would like some info/help on the procedures. My house is on a slab, the old unit was 30"x60" with a RH drain, and I would like to use the same drain...if that is a good idea. Everything has been removed and cleaned...so, I'm ready to put in the pan. While I've read some books and looked through some of these forums, it seems the more I read the more confused I get and I want to make sure this project avoids some of the pitfalls some of you experienced tilers have seen. So any help/info would be greatly apprectiated...let's start with the pan. Thanks...Ted

Hi Ted
You CAN use the same drain if the bolts aren't rusted too much.

Have you looked through some of the procedures in the tile gallery set up on this website? Each one is step-by-step.
http://www.ontariotile.com/showergallery.html
http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

I tried to do a curb with mortar but could not seem to get the mortar trowelled on smooth and staight on the sides and the top completly level,is there a certain way totrowel this stuff as this was my first time trying this.

thank you

Yes there's a certain way ... but there's no way to other than hands on to learn. But what's the problem? Too runny, to stiff, or are you all thumbs?
It doesn't need to be applied perfectly flat and level. Of course you do the best you can but the mud doesn't respond well when you spend too much time working it.
Just get it applied to the lath no thicker than the drywall outside and the backerboard inside. If the curb extends wall to wall then thickness isn't dictated by any factor other than what you're able to work with. Usually 1/2" thickness is all that you need to worry about.
Once it's applied ..... leave it for 2 or 3 hours and then you can scrap it (CAREFULLY) flat and plumb with a slight slope into the shower. Any imperfections can be corrected with thinset the following day.

I may have had the mortar a little to wet and also probably was working it to much trying to get it right,I let it dry over night and am wondering if I should apply another light coat of mortar to try to plum and level it with the mortar not being as wet.thanks for the great info.

If you need just a thin fix up layer, you will get a much better bond using thinset. Mortar on mortar often results in a weak bond. If your mud was pretty thick, then you can correct with a rub stone or a coarse sharpening stone by grinding away the high spots.

I think I understand the differences in thinset -- Dryset Mortar, unmodified is used over concrete slabs; while modified is used over wood. Am I close? So my the pan will be dryset, but the 2x4 curb will be modified thinset?

I thought you were just going to put an thin coat on to fix up the botched mortar bed on the curb. That's why I recommended a thinset (AKA dryset) If you are starting the curb over then use a type S masonry mortar or a topping mix/sand mix mortar enriched with type S cement and follow Harry's instructions on the home page.

It's not super clear cut with the modified/unmodified thinset. In most cases modified is better even on concrete. The one place standard/unmodified thinset is the only option is between two impermeable surfaces, such as under Kerdi.

Ted, No one can follow your project or related questions if you don't place them in your original opening thread/project which is under Showers/Steamrooms.

If you keep hijacking other threads no one is going to be able to answer your questions. They won't be able to figure out what has been previously asked or answered.

Please make an effort to correct this for upcoming questions.

You are right, matter-of-fact as I was weaving my way through the forum I came to that realization that I've scattered questions through out the forum...bad idea. I'll stick to to my project thread. Thanks for reinforcing what should have been the obvious.
Ted