So I've been talking to Harry and Randall, these guys are an amazing help. I've created an issue for myself and am seeking the guidance of a pro for correction. So you can see from our conversation that they are great at what they do. Thanks guys.

Please Help
Mike C
New Member

Posts: 4

Hi Guys, I am very sorry to bother you. So I measured all my products and did all my math but when I was finished building my tub frame, I was kind of surprised to see that I really messed up on my math. I basically should of had 1 5/8" for my supplies to go on top of the tub frame, under the lip, but I ended up with only 1" under the tub's lip. Now of that 1" 5/8, I allowed for 1/2" of that to be for Thinset and Tile, I was wondering if you guys may have any suggestions on how I can still make this work without tearing it all out and starting again, cause it’s all tied in and down. I’ll attach a few pictures so you can see what I’m working with, please help I AM STUCK.


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/s5O...feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8jd...feat=directlink



#1070 - 08/30/09 09:38 PM
Re: Please Help
Harry


Hi Mike

The tub can be set higher using shims and dense foam (spray foam)
Even a layer of plywood close to the desired thickness.

_________________________
Harry Dunbar





#1071 - 08/30/09 09:47 PM
Re: Please Help
RC

All is not lost Mike. You will just have to butt the tile up to the face of the tub flange. Just make sure to leave a 1/8" gap between the tub flange face and any component (tile or cementboard) that comes up to it. Fill this gap with silicone.
_________________________
Randall



#1073 - 08/30/09 10:54 PM
Re: Please Help
Mike C

Now, When you say Shims, I assume under the platfoarm that is attached to the bottom of the fiberglass tub. But where would the spray foam go.





#1074 - 08/30/09 11:00 PM
Re: Please Help
Mike C

So Put the Plywood and DensSheild down, Redguard the The Seam s against the walls, and thinset the seams on the DensSheild. Then Thiset and Tiles On top but Against the Tub, leaving 1/8" gap between the Tile and Tub Flange, filling it with Caulking, as to have it go under the Tub Flange and Seal up to and level with the Tile. Just Checking, looking at both possibilities, Your's and Harry's. I really appreciate your help guys. I was so impressed with myself, LOL, till now.


#1075 - 08/30/09 11:02 PM
Re: Please Help
Mike C

Oh, also I was wondering if it's OK if I add a link to your site on my Blog, I'm just trying to start one so I can share my experiences with Friends, I am putting a section called "Helpful Sites," I've added it, but I will take it off if you preffer.

http://choppa181.blogspot.com



#1076 - 08/31/09 07:01 AM
Re: Please Help
Harry


I was suggesting that you could use the shims or plywood to set the tub higher off the floor to accomodate the height of the deck. The foam may be used to help fill the voids and distribute weight under the tub.

If the tub can't be set higher, then Randall's suggestion is the only option.

Perhaps take this into the forum so others may benefit .... and use your blog in your posts to show your progress. Great photos and great job mike!
_________________________
Harry Dunbar




#1077 - 08/31/09 07:05 AM
Re: Please Help
RC

I don't use cedar shims or spray foam under any tub. The shims and the foam will compress with the full weight of water and a person. Most tub/spa manufacturers require units to be set in a bed of mortar. (sorry Harry)
The feet or rails of the tub are the only places a tub should be supported

So as you can see it's been extremely helpful, so I thought I'd put it in Here for all to benefit like Harry said. Thank you very very much guys as always very helpful.

Visit my blog to see the pictures, let me know what you think or if you may have any advice.

http://choppa181.blogspot.com

Randall's right Mike .... for some reason I thought the tub had a wood structure with the legs.

The Tub does have a wooden structure on the bottom, basically there are two 5" lengths of 2x6 attached to the bottom of a piece of plywood that is fiberglassed to the tub.

The way I do it is to use plywood under the legs or rails to support the weight. You can use whatever size works. You can use mortar if you like but I have found the tub ends up with too much weight on the deck (tile). I use the foam under the whole structure to keep everything in place and right or wrong it's worked that way for me for years. I put a 10 year warranty on my work and I've yet to get a call back.
Use the method recommended by the manufacturer .... Randall is correct with the mortar bed, he just can't convince me to completely rely on it (maybe one day buddy). Even when I use mortar (rarely) I still like something solid holding the weight until the mud sets.

So place a sheet of plywood down, set the tub down, and then spray foam under in between the rails, and around the rails. Should I fill the whole gap between the rais, cause thats a lot of spray foam. lol.

The foam isn't used to support the tub .... the plywood holds the weight.
If your floor is level, then a sheet of plywood the proper thickness to support the tub. If the floor isn't level then set a small square of plywood at each end of the 2 rails and fill the void between the rail and floor with mortar. You may have to shim one end of a rail to make it level.
If you like, after the tub is set you can put a bit of water in the tub and spray a tube of foam under the main body.

You only need enough mortar so that the rails sink slightly into the mud.

OK, so I’m all done installing the tub deck, with plywood, and DensSheild, I'm at a point where I know I am supposed to use my fiber tape, and then mortar, but what king of mortar. I will be using a sand mix, to attach the tub to the floor, will that work or should I use Thinset. Also I've attached some pictures; I have used DensSheild to fill the space on the wall where I removed the dry wall. I was thinking of redguarding that joint and 6" up the wall just to be safe, what do you guys think.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kjQ...feat=directlink

Did you embed the DensShield in thinset?
The screws are not supposed to be countersunk. Your screws also need to be 8"O.C. on the tub deck.

Mesh the seams and corner joints and then skim coat those joints with thinset. Skim coat the screw heads also. Cover all skim coated areas with 2 coats of RedGard.

You could just use thinset to fill under the rails or feet.

Hey Randall, I didn't embed in Thinset, I didn't even realize I had too, (Well there’s another costly mistake.) Unless I can reapply the DensSheild in the same place, but I can only assume that because I've countersunk the screws I've sunk this project already, well that sucks. I guess I will cut my losses and reapply New DensSheild. So just to be clear, Cut the DensSheild to fit, Then Apply Thinset on top of my Plywood, place DensSheild down, and Fasten with Screw heads flush with the surface not countersunk. Then finish with your other directions above.

Sorry one more thing, when I apply the Thinset to secure the Tub to the floor should I use a bonding agent.