I am going to put a ceramic tile tub suround on an acrylic tub and am wondering if I should use hardie backer 500 or Greene Board? I was going to cover the backer with red guard.

Any thoughts on this process and Greene Board.

Thank You
Scott

Is this a tub with a shower? If so, I would definitely not use green board, whether or not it's being covered with Redgard. I had quit using Hardiebacker 500 for the simple reason that it's slightly thinner than 1/2". This can present a problem if it's meeting drywall because they won't be flush with each other and causes a little speed bump.

For liquid applied waterproofing, I use Durock or Wonderboard.

Yes this is a tub with a shower. I am not familiar with this new greene board as it is not the old Gypsum product with the green water resistant paper. The Greene Board is listed on the list of backer boards on the Forum home page.

Thank You for your reply.
Scott

That's a little different.

I'm not familiar with that particular board. I still don't like the idea of Redgard directly on sheetrock, but it may work fine on what you have there.

Maybe someone else on here that is familiar with that product can give you some advice.

I have worked a bit with greenE board. I like it. it's very tough and the edges of the pannels are channeled like drywall, so that the taped seams end up flush. You will be happy with it.

I just installed the bathtub in our new house today, and am getting ready to install the backerboard for the tile surround. However, I have seen a few different techniques and have a few questions... 1. Can I screw 1/2" backerboard directly to the wall studs (16" OC)? 2. Can I use 2" corrosion resistant deck screws to attach the backerboard to the studs? 3. How should the backerboard meet with the flange of the tub? Should I overlap the tub flange with the backerboard (leaving a 1/4" gap at the bottom), or stop the backerboard above the flange and rely on the tile to cover the flange? 4. Should I use plastic beneath the backerboard, or would 15# roofing felt work as well? I assume this should overlap the flange as well? 5. Should I install metal flashing over the tub flange, or is the poly/felt vapor barrier adequate protection? Thanks, Anthony

Pinku, Instead of hijacking this thread, you should create your own topic in the forum for your project.

Create a new topic and cut and paste your post to the new topic.
Thanks

Hello I have the backer board up on my tub surround with the joints, fasteners, and corners taped and thinset. I am going to apply redguard next. I was woundering the best way to start the tub surround tile as I will be using 13x13 tile. Should I start at the tub level shiming the tile up 1/8" or start on the second row? What is the best way to support the first row of tile applied so they do not sag or slide down the wall?
How can I post some photos of this project to this post?

Thank You
Scott

First lay out several tile on the floor in a row and measure them. Then check that measurement against the wall and make sure you won't have a sliver of tile at the ceiling, or wherever it is you're going to stop with the tile.

I usually start with the bottom row and shim with tile spikes.
You can use anything you like for shims, though. You need to use something that won't collapse if you plan on doing several rows in a day.

I start with the first row because once it's in and shimmed, I can continue on and finish in the same day.

You can start on the second row if you prefer, just screw a ledger board to the studs and patch the holes later.

Scott, you can post photos in the Ceramic Tile forum under the subforum "Post Photos of the project your having trouble with"
Follow the directions there.
You can drop them into an existing thread but it's more complicated.

Not all tubs sit perfectly level, so find the lowest point and start there. You may have to cut the bottoms of the first row to make any adjustments for out of level tub decks. Unless you don't mind a huge caulk joint.

Whether you start at the bottom row or second row really depends on high up your going. For ceiling height installations, when you can't reach all the way to the top of the wall,I set up a full plywood cover that sits on the top of the tub. This interferes with the bottom row installation, so I start with a ledger board and complete all walls first and then do the bottom row last. If your only going up 5-1/2' or 6' then you could start on the bottom row.

I have another question regarding Protegga Tile Underlay. The tile installation procedures say to use a premium fast setting modified mortar if laying porcelain tile. How easy is this type of thin set to use and what is the name of the product from Mapei or Custom Blend? Would unmodified thin set also work?

Thank You
Scott J

Fast setting mortars are not DIY friendly. On average most fast set thinsets have a pot life of 20 to 30 minutes depending on jobsite conditions. If you can work fast, mixing and cleaning up for small batches and have all your cuts pre done you might be ok. See where I'm going with this.

I don't know what Custom has in their line for fast sets. Mapei has a few, one being Ultraflex RS.

Best to go on the manufacturer's web sites and take note of the appropriate mortars, then see if they are readily available at your local suppliers.

Any reason why your not using Schluter Ditra? At least you can use a good non modified to set porcelain with their underlayment and be covered under a 5 year warranty.

Ever noticed that there is no mention of any warranty with Protegga.

Thank You for your reply Randall. I purchased the Protegga from a local flooring store which sold Ditra previously but not now. I am guessing it is probally pricing. I have used Ditra on two other small flooring projects, and used unmodified thinset on top of the Ditra. One is five years old over a heat mat and the other is approximately one year old, both have had no problems.



Scott