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#16156 - 08/20/10 12:05 PM Mortar Bed
reneran Offline
New Member

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 4
Hi, I started my shower about two months ago and got as far as the mortar bed, I used Harry Dunbars method for that but then I decided to hire someone to finish it because I chickened out. That's when I hire a local contractor. Now I have some concerns about the water standing in the shower. When I asked him about it he told me that it was my fault because there was a dip in the mortar bed. I am 99% sure that there was not a dip in the mortar bed BUT if there was one could he have compensated for it and done it right. Thanks René

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#16157 - 08/20/10 02:57 PM Re: Mortar Bed [Re: reneran]
Kman Offline
Senior Member

Registered: 08/07/06
Posts: 849
Loc: Pea Ridge, Arkansas
Rene, before we start throwing random suggestions out, can you clarify exactly what you want to know from us? smile
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#16158 - 08/20/10 03:42 PM Re: Mortar Bed [Re: Kman]
reneran Offline
New Member

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 4
Hi, Yes I will try. I would like to know if the contractor could of made a good slope from what he had to work with. Like I said I did do the best I could to slope the mortar bed so that water would easily flow to the drain. He is claiming that he could not do anything with the so called dip in mortar bed when he did the finish layer and the tile. Now I have a puddle of water that will not drain. Thanks Ren'e

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#16160 - 08/20/10 03:56 PM Re: Mortar Bed [Re: reneran]
Kman Offline
Senior Member

Registered: 08/07/06
Posts: 849
Loc: Pea Ridge, Arkansas
Here's the straight answer: Maybe

If it was a very slight dip, he might have added some thinset to the low area to bring the tile up so the water would drain, although the mud underneath that area would probably be the last spot in the shower to dry.

If it was a deeper depression, such as 1/4" or more, it would have to be filled several hours before the tile was put down to allow the patch to dry. It may still be possible to take up a small section and put it back properly so it will drain.

I would not normally do part of a shower for someone, mainly because I fear the problems that may arise like the one you're having. But if I did something like what you hired out, I would go over the floor with a level and make sure I had something I could work with before I started putting tile down. If there was a problem, the time to address it is before the work starts, not when it's completely finished.

Here's a more important question: Your shower is built with a PVC liner to catch the water, correct? If so, is there a sloped bed of mortar under the liner, as well as another one on top of the liner?
_________________________
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
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#16161 - 08/20/10 04:30 PM Re: Mortar Bed [Re: Kman]
reneran Offline
New Member

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 4
Yes the liner is above the sloped bed of mortar and there is a top finish layer one on top.

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#16162 - 08/20/10 07:52 PM Re: Mortar Bed [Re: reneran]
Kman Offline
Senior Member

Registered: 08/07/06
Posts: 849
Loc: Pea Ridge, Arkansas
I would start with a 2' level (or a shorter one if necessary) and lay it across the low spot. If you've got a good slope on both sides of the low spot, and raising the low spot won't make a reverse slope anywhere, then I'd remove just enough tile in the low area and fill it with thinset. You don't want to overfill it, but it should come up to just below the bottom side of the adjacent tile. Let it dry overnight and replace the tile you took out.
_________________________
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
1.

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#16163 - 08/21/10 09:11 AM Re: Mortar Bed [Re: Kman]
reneran Offline
New Member

Registered: 08/20/10
Posts: 4
Thank you very much, Since I found this site I feel that I can understand this type of work better, not saying that I can necessarily do it but I can learn how it should be done and let the person doing work for me know that I have done my home work. Thanks again René

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