Newbee here, both on the forum and the shower retro...

Decided I wanted to tackle this project, after all, it's not rocket science.

Anyhow, here's a picture to start with:



Note the pipes on the left and the dryer vent in the right rear. The board on the floor is where I want to extend the new shower to, this will give about 44 inches square taking into consideration losing 4 inches on the back wall due to the dryer vent, and perhaps an inch on the left side. Thinking about a ledge on the back wall about 4 inches to compensate for the dryer vent. Sort of hard to explain. Also thinking of a seat for the right corner as well.

Getting ahead of myself...

I'll need to bring the drain toward the front perhaps six inches, going to chisel the slab out to do this. Also want to fill in the hole as well, should be no need for it. When I took the old shower out the pvc pipe appeared to have been cut off and was just sitting on top of the drain, hence the leaking grey water around the pipe.

Told my DW not to expect the shower to be done for at least a month. I work full time, so this will be a weekend and evening project.

Advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

I think the seat would be a good idea to cover the dryer vent. As for the water lines on the left, you might fur the wall out, but you'd have to do it all the way out to the shower opening. With your drain, you would need to dig out to the trap and move it as well so the drain falls directly to the trap.

Was there something specific you wanted to know, or just a general evaluation of your plans?

I suppose a general evaluation. So, there's a trap down there? I'll need to pull that water out as well as the wet dirt. Not visible are the pipes on the left side. Purchased shut off valves to install, will need to relocate the pipes to be centered.

I was thinking of putting 2x10's on the 3 sides, the one on the left side could be notched for the pipes? Perhaps I could elevate the floor and build up a wooden platform for the base of the shower pan?

If you're going to re-route the water lines and build a bench in the right corner, there's really no reason to fur out the walls.

You could move the water lines into that wall (interior wall, right) and drill holes through the studs to get them where you want them. Or, you could make a small trench in the slab and move them under the floor. The bench will cover the dryer vent.

The trap needs to be directly under the drain for proper drainage. Take the trap off, and extend the line down to the location of the new drain. Then re-attach the trap and run a piece of 2" PVC up to the slab.

Score or cut the slab then chisel it out to move your water/drain lines where you want them, then fill in the trenches with gravel up to the bottom of the slab, then concrete the rest of the way up. It doesn't have to be pretty, since the mud floor will cover everything.

I wouldn't bother with building a false floor there. Your shower step would be much too high then.

Not withstanding the above advice, what would be the purpose of the 2x10's?

Here are pics of the pipes, do I need to break up the slab that they are coming out of to get them moved? The pipes are on the left wall.





On the 2x10 question, I saw another how-to that had 2x10's on the side walls for the pan, what will be on the walls then? Maybe I don't know the best way to phrase the questions. A step-by-step on what to do is what I'm looking for, I'm about as green as they come, but have no issue with doing the work, just need to do it the correct way.

When you said (interior wall, right) you were referring to the wall they (existing pipes) are currently on, correct? I was thinking the shower head and handles would be centered on the wall (left interior) (centered between the back wall and front edge of the tile) unless that is not optimal, please advise.

Thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction.

Pritch-

Breaking up that little bit of slab and notching out the bottom plate would be the best way to move the water lines into the wall. From there you run them through the studs where you needed. Be careful not to puncture the water lines while you do this. You'll have to take the slab out to the full depth in that area.

And for the 2x10's, yes that's what you need for backing for the liner. I forget about those sometimes since a Kerdi shower doesn't require a liner.

OK, as you can see, I've managed finally to get the slab opened up around the pipes (without cutting into either one).

I thought that using a 7 inch $3 masonary cut off wheel on my circular saw would help, but after cutting for a few seconds only 2 inches long and maybe an inch deep decided it wasn't a good idea. I went back to drilling holes and whacking the concrete chisel with a 5 lb sledge to get it opened up. As you can see, I drilled a few 1 inch holes in the bottom plate and chiseled the bulk of the wood out, not very pretty, I'll admit.





Tomorrow I'll shut off the water and cut the 2 pipes at a decent height and install gate values, then I should be able to coax a little more bend into them and get them aligned in the wall area. I will get some new foam to wrap them as well. Any advice here?

Once I do that I need to finalize the drain (Kman, you were correct, there is a trap down there) and then relocate the hot and cold pipe runs to center the control and shower head on the left wall. I have 48 inches from left to right from stud to stud, so I am assuming that it's ok to have the depth at 48 inches as well. Do I center the drain at the 24 inch mark both ways? How high up should the drain opening be?

Once the pipes and drain is set, I think the next step would be to fill the holes with concrete, yes? Can I stick the broken concrete pieces back in before I add the cement? What is the best approach? How long should I let it cure (dry) before building the pan? Would I build the shower seat before starting the pan?

Speaking of the drain, when I took the old shower out the drain was not connected, but was just sitting on top of the pipe, here's a picture of the bottom of the old shower pan.



That sure looks cut to me (and I didn't cut it)... Why in the world would they do that? I did find gray water puddled around the pipe when I took the old shower out, it stunk. It's all dried up now. Thought I would share and ask.

I know, so many questions, thanks for taking the time to answer.

I'm not sure what the reason would be for the foam on the pipes. Someone else might have some info on that. You need clamps wherever the pipes go through the studs to prevent the 'water hammer'.

Center the drain between the left and right walls, and between the back wall and the dam. Stub up the drain line at about the level of the slab. You're going to cut it off to set drain at the correct height anyway. The flange of the drain should be about an inch above the slab to account for the preslope.

Why did they 'set' the drain that way? Who knows? There's no accounting for bad workmanship.

I would fill the hole with some pea gravel up to the level of the slab, then concrete the rest of the way. I wouldn't use any gravel with sharp points. No sense in taking the risk that one of them might puncture a water line. You could just fill the entire hole with concrete if they're not too big. Set the bench and let the concrete set overnight before you start the preslope.

I think the foam around the pipes is to stop corrosion. If I remember correctly...copper and portland cement don't really get along too well. I think duct tape will give the same protection though.

I'm seriously considering getting the Kerdi 48"x48" Shower Kit. Included is the presloped pan, curb, Kerdi drain and 108sf membrane. Seems to be a viable option. Is it as popular as it seems to be?

On Edit: Probably not the base, as I have to deal with the dryer vent in the right corner, but the drain and membrane for sure.