I have read through a lot of forum topics and suggested instruction. But I still have some concerns/questions.
PLEASE HELP.

Prior to reading this forum/site, based on an advice from one retired remodeller (who told me he has never had problem with his method), I started building custom shower.

Here is what I have done so far,

1) I built a threshold using 2x to the size I wanted (approx 40"54"). Put down tar paper, sealed all the seams using roof sealant. (Henry's). IT is waterproof. But don't know how durable this solutions is.> Need your advice.
3) Then I put down sloped dry mud with drain over chicken wire. The mud pan is about 1 1/4 thick near the drain. I have sloped 1/4 per foot. But - I ended up with a dip in one area that I believe is little more than 1/4". How can I fix this?
4) I then added 1/2 Hardie on the walls, threshold. Filled all the seams, gaps with Masonry Crack filler caulk. Used liquid waterproof all around - three coats. It is waterproof now. I am ready to Tile.

This is where I stopped with following concerns;
1> I still have a dip (about 1/4"). HOW DO I FIX THIS? Remember I have already put in Redgard on Mortar bed. I can space to raise the mortar bed by 1". My drain & Tile thickness will allow that.

2> Is liquid waterproof sufficient? if not, what are my options? (without redoing the whole damn thing)

3> Can I put Kerdi directly over Redgard coat?

4> Assuming I have to add 1" of additional mortar layer to fix the dip issue, can Kerdi be laid down below mortar bed? or do I have to put Kerdi as a last layer before tiles?

Thanks all for your advice! Appreciate it immensely.

You have not mentioned what type of drain you have. If you are using a Schluter drain and have screeded the mortar bed flush with the drain flange, then everything is OK. If you are using a conventional drain, then weep holes need to be adressed.

You can fix your dip with a bit of thinset. Just trowel it on there to get it all nice and even. if the mortar dips is below the level of the drain flange then you should cut out the redgard, fill in and then re-waterproof.

Kerdi can not go over top of redgard. This will create a vapor lock between two water proof layers. the exception would be like a two inch overlap where Kerdi and redgard overlap when combining the two methods. If you have put three layers of redgard in the whole shower, then you are waterproofed and no further water proofing is necessary.

Thanks!
I have not used schluter drain system. I have used conventional one that I purchased at HD. How do I address the weep holes?

The dip is close to the drain. Before I add the adjustable strainer top, lowest point of the dip is below drain flange.
I don't really know what to do about weep holes.

Also I mis-identified Redgard as the liquid waterproof product. Instead it is HYDROGUARD ONE. I have read the datasheet on it, it seems very similar to Redgard. Any concerns?
thanks again.

I have no experience with Hydroguard, so I can't comment on it. With a standard drain a pre-slope mortar bed is put in to the bottom half of the drain assembly, then a pan liner goes in that clamps into the drain assembly. This is where the weep holes sit. then another mortar bed goes on top of that and then the tile.

With liquid water proofing the way to do it is build a thicker mortar bed to begin with and then about 6 inches from the drain divet it steeply down to where the weep holes are. water proof the whole thing with straws inserted into the weep holes, then fill in the trough with pea gravel topped with mortar. This is a bit difficult to explain without a schematic, but i failed to find one on line.

Water gets through the tile and grout and travels down till it meets a water proof surface. It has to have somewhere to escape or it will just sit there and grow mold. Have a look at your drain assembly and you will see how it all works.

Thanks Pistolpete. My options are becoming clearer.

My first option is;
Cutout the liquid waterproof material near the area of dip,
Fill it with thinset, make it all nice,
Waterproof all over again with liquid material.
I now understand weep holes and straw technique. thanks.

My second option is;
Fix the dip with thinset as in first option.
Pull out bottom most hardie backer boards all over.
Install pan liner as per standard method.
Add second layer of mortar.
Reinstall hardie on walls/threshold.
It will be ready for tiling.

Obviously second option is little bit more work.

What would you recommend!!?

maybe try to post a picture of what you have so far. As clear as possible close-up on how your existing mortar/waterproofing meets the drain assembly.

The problem with your second option is that the curb needs to be done with mesh and mortar, because you can not use any fasteners inside the curb and 6"up the walls. This is a challenging bit of concrete work for most people.

A third option would be to buy a Schluter drain and replace the one you have. (look on their web site for pictures) Expect to pay about $100 for the drain. This would involve breaking out the center bit of your mortar bed and some fancy plumbing, but is perhaps the least amount of work.

It is an interesting idea. But I am little bit scared to cut the current drain/removing it in the middle of waterproof mortar bed. I will take some pictures and post it.

I thought of a third option, which I like.
Leave the dip as is. But put in a straw to keep weep holes open.
Situation is waterproof all over.
Add 3/4" to 1" mortar and get the slope right (this time!).
Add Kerdi over the second layer of mortar and make it 100% waterproof. My theory is that since the second layer is waterproof, there will not be any water getting into the dip of first layer.

Do you see any issue with my logic?
Thanks for your help.

Meanwhile I will get some picture uploaded.

Failed in adding picture. Too many steps.

Please comment on if there is anything wrong with any of my three options.

This is great help. THANKS!!

Normal recommendation is to avoid two waterproof membranes. This is because any moisture that gets between two membranes can not escape ( a condition called Vapor Lock). the second trouble spot with your process is at the drain. How is your second mortar bed going to run up to the drain without creating a little dam where the drain flange comes up. If the water has to go up and over the little lip it will sit there and your grout around the drain will be perpetually wet. It's doable, but tricky.

if you want to build a second mortar bed then do the divet method I mentioned.

Alright. That is what I will try. I think I almost understand the divet method.

one point I am uncertain about divet method is, once I add the pea gravel near the drain, while I am tiling, Do I just thin set over pea gravel and lay the tile as normal?

I am also thinking of using Kerlite as my shower floor. In case people haven't heard, it is a 2mm thick porcelain. Because it can slightly deflect/bend, bigger sizes can be cut to minimize the grout lines. It comes in 39"x39" size. I like it. But like to know this forum's opinion

Anyone has experience with Kerlite?

Thanks!

The divet gets filled in with mortar. The pea gravel is just a handful to keep the mortar from filling in the weep holes. Look at the picture on the main page of this web site under how to build a shower pan. There harry has arranged a few tile spacers to do the same thing. The straws actually do the same thing, keeping the mortar out of the weep holes. Once the mortar has set the straws are removed and no pea gravel is necessary at all.

Awesome. I checked out the picture. I get it.
This has been great help.