Couple of things, Where's the pan liner,liner for the curb and whats Mapei 4/1?
I hope you didn't use thinset to make the shower pan.

I have heard that Floridians don't normally use pan liners over their slab floors. I'm guessing that's why I don't see one.

I am putting 12" x 12" marble tile (1/4" think) on top of a bathroom vanity and need to cut the circle out for the sink.

The center of the sink is where four corners of the tile meet.

I was considering attempting to use a rotozip, jigsaw, or router to cut out a sink hole in the tile? Does anybody have any suggestions if any of these methods will work? If so, what type blade is suggested?

I was thinking I should cut out the sink in the wood on top of the vanity and then lay the tile over the hole and then cut through the tile with one of the above methods. Having pre-cut the hole in the wood, I would be able to use it is a blade guide while cutting the tile.

Also, I am intending to use F26 glue rather than thinset to attach the tile to the plywood. I intend to butt the tiles up to one another with no grout space between. I plan to use a thin silicon layer between joints. Anybody have any thoughts on this? I want to come as close as possible to the appearance of a solid marble top, so I thought the F26 glue and the silicone in joints would provide a greater chance of a completely flat surface.

FYI: I have no extra pieces of marble tile to test with. I bought one box of tile which is exactly enough.

No extras, huh? Nothing like working under pressure.

With a sink cutout, I usually have the hole cut out in the plywood, then dry-lay each piece in place and trace the cut-out of the plywood onto the back of each tile. I then use a grinder with a 4" blade to make successively deeper cuts along that mark until I work my way through. With marble, you're going to have to be extremely careful that it doesn't crack. I've had them fall apart in my hands due to natural fissures and cracks. You might try laying them on an old folded up towel or tarp to cushion it.

I would strongly recommend you use an approved tile underlayment such as backer board, or if you can find it, Schluter Ditra. It's a little more costly, but you're not doing a lot of square footage there, and installing it is much easier.

I would very strongly recommend that you not use F26 and that you use a modified thinset made for setting marble. F26 cannot be combed and spread like thinset, and you'll end up with voids between the marble and the substrate. One day you'll lean on a corner of the tile and it'll snap like a twig. Thinset, properly used, will fully support the tile and prevent breakage.

You can use silicone if you wish, but I would use an unsanded grout and a 1/16" grout joint. You'll be lucky if you can get the tile butted together tightly and be able to keep them in a straight line.

Thanks....

Is it good to prefer marble for bathroom flooring!!

Hello everybody! Hope to hear from someone!

Hi kate 16
You should have started your own thread so that everyone can see the project your working on. As it stands now, it would only appear that your replying to the original posters thread. That's why there's no reply's.

My suggestion to you, is to start a new thread in the forums with a heading appropriate to your project.

Ok, i have all the stuff i need(hopefully) and some time to do it. Right now i have the drain in the 4-1 bed, the backer is on the walls and the seams are taped and sealed.

I have purchased some Redgard which i will use for sealant.

Do i use this on the floor and the walls?

After i use the sealant i should be ready for some modified thinset to set the tile on the floor and the walls right?

Thanks.

Is the plastic still on the walls? When I saw that in your earlier pics, I assumed that's what you were using for a moisture barrier. It should have draped over the liner near the floor, then any moisture would have been directed to the drain.

However, if you're using a surface-applied waterproofing like Redgard, it's not advisable to have plastic on the studs as it will retain moisture between the Redgard and plastic.

If you mentioned your intention to use Redgard in a previous post, I missed it.

There is plastic on the walls due to them being outside walls..well and the 1 interior wall has plastic also. Yes the plastic does drape over the liner at the bottom.

So you are saying that i shouldn't use the redgard and just go ahead with the mortar and tile? That would be great, save me $100.

Also, it is modified thinset on the walls and not mastic correct?