What are the pros and cons of Ceramic and Porcelain tile? Tile is going in a Steel Building with concrete slab. The things that are most important for my application are:

1. Low Temperatures (Can withstand some moisture and cooler temperatures at about 7-10 deg Celcius for 5 months of the year)
2. Strength (not sure if one is more resistant to chips)
3. Flexibility (does one tile have more flexibility over the other or is it the thinset that I should be concerned about).

Thanks

Paul

Ciao Paolo,

You definitely want porcelain, preferably a through-body porcelain sometimes called double-loaded. It's the same color/pattern all the way through and it is not decorated. (glazed). Real porcelain is frost proof/resistant and much strong than regular ceramic. BTW, porcelain IS ceramic, but ceramic may not be porcelain.

The proper thin set based on the type of tile and substrate in important. Some are better than others. You'll also need to evaluate the condition of the slab and address any cracks, cold joints or control joints. You'll need expansion joints around the perimeter and most likely in the field too, depending on the size of the area.

Jaz

I've never had to deal with expansion joints...do you mind discussing this a little further. What is the proper way of making an expansion joint. The rooms are roughtly 20'x20' on concrete slab. There is one crack those goes from exterior wall to exterior wall that I'm a little concerned about BUT through the advice I got here I was told I can get an application that I roll over the crack.

Paolo

You need to address that for sure. Not knowing what's available to you, I think you're best off using a liquid applied crack-isolation membrane. Follow their directions.

You should place expansion joints in the field close to the middle both ways. Normally you'd be OK at up to 25'. But because of the temp range and the moisture, you need them every 8-12'. In addition, be sure to leave the perimeter un grouted. You can use matching color chalk for the joints and the perimeter if not covered with molding. You could use the Schluter expansion profiles in the field instead. http://www.schluter.com/4_18_dilex_akws.aspx

Jaz

Are there any control joints in the slab?

If not, I think I'd do a dry layout of the tile enough to determine where a grout joint would fall in the middle of the room (both directions) and cut a joint in the slab there. Those grout joints would be filled with color-matched silicone or caulk.