New to forum and to tiling. I have been reading here for quite some time and have picked up some very good pointers. I feel I can do this project and so does my cousin who is in construction and does this kind of work. When I asked him whether to replace this shower or to build a shower he did not hesitate to tell me to build one. Unfortunately he lives up north though.

I will be removing a fiberglass shower stall and putting in a tiled unit. The area is 48x36. My home is on a slab and the flooring in the house is masonry venier (looks like a hospital floor)so I have a very solid base. I almost bought a tile redi shower pan but, after reading a few threads and comments from experienced folks I decided against it. Glad I found this forum.

I haven't ripped out the old shower just yet until I have a better idea of what I need to do. A long time ago the drain started leaking around the base when I was gone. My wife had a plumber come out and he sealed the drainpipe to the flange on the shower stall by melting lead into it. my drain pipe is made of some kind of metal.

I am unsure of what I need to do here. I know i have to cut that portion off that was sealed with lead. How much should be sticking up from the floor before I begin? How do I adapt this to a drain? If this pipe is not tall enough after I cut off the melted protion I have no idea of how to make it long enough and/or how to adapt and seal it to whatever drain I need. I could also use some framing tips. I am going to take this slow so I get it right the first time.

Any help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Yikes! Sounds like you've got cast iron plumbing. It'll have to be cut off and adapted to PVC before you go any further. Depending on the condition of the plumbing, you may want to remove it past the trap and convert it all. One of the other guys that has a little more plumbing knowledge will have to advise you on this one, but sometimes calling in a pro is the smartest and most economical way to go.

Thanks for the response Kman. Yikes is correct. I understand the logic in removing it past the trap I think... Being that it is cast Iron it may be pretty rusty in the bottom of the trap and can get to it while I am real close to it?

Obviously this is something I didn't want to hear and was just hoping to adapt somehow above slab without busting into it. As far as busting out the area and fitting a pipe and concreting back in I can probably handle that easier than the shower pan but don't want to if I don't have to. But, it sounds like I have to. It never would have crossed my mind to replace it back that far.

OK. Plumbing question taken care of. i talked to someone who knows plumbing and I was assured that I can adapt. He will take a look after I cut out the old one. Going to have to be next weekend. I have to finish fixing the second bath before going further so as to have a place to bathe. Haven't used it in years. Stems in the fixture were bad and can't get replacements for about 4 days.

Been doing some looking around for products and am interested in the Schluter membrane.

What are the differences in construction when using this product as I am a bit confused about that.

Kerdi functions the same way as any other surface-applied waterproofing product, in that it keeps any water that penetrates the grout from entering the substrate. How Kerdi is installed on the substrate is different from a liquid waterproofing of course.

The conventional method of building showers which incorporates a liner on the floor and a cement backer on the walls manages water a bit differently. Basically, the tile substrate is allowed to become saturated with water. The management system allows water that doesn't evaporate to make its way to the drain. While it certainly works fine, it does allow water to reside in the system. This residual water is "flushed" out and replaced continuously each time the shower is used.

Either system works, and the conventional system is certainly cheaper, however the newer methods helps manage water more efficiently and allows it to dry it much faster.

For a do-it-yourselfer, a liquid waterproofing may be the easiest and most foolproof method. The only thing you have to be certain of is that the liquid is applied to the proper thickness. Multiple coats properly applied will give you a waterproof shower that will last years.

However, if you want to learn more about the Kerdi system, Harry has several pages on this site about the installation of Kerdi.

Thank you for the explanation. I will have to look into the liquid waterproofing.

I am very interested in the kerdi board.

http://www.ontariotile.com/kerdi-board.html

Still trying to look at everything out there before I make a decision. That stuff looks like it is easy to work with and recently I have seen it used on Holmes on Homes. Not sure of the cost effectiveness vs traditional method or availability in my area though.

More reasearch to do.

My brain is getting an overload but, I have to know as much as I can about this project before I get started and knowing what technique and waterproofing system I am going to utilize is a must before getting started.

Kerdiboard would definitely be the easiest and fastest method...and probably two to three times the cost of using drywall and Kerdi. I think it appeals to some installers who want to finish hanging wall covering (instead of sheetrock) and waterproofing (instead of thinset & Kerdi) in a very short time.

If time is a serious issue, or if money is no object, then Kerdiboard may be the answer for you. You still have to do some work with Kerdiband for the seams, though.

Thank you. That, along with a little research has helped me to make up my mind to go with a traditional pan and a kerdi membrane and drain.

This gives me the quality and waterproofing I need without the extra cost involved with the kerdi board. Time is not a big issue as I have another bathroom but, it only has a tub and no shower.

Have to suck it up for a while!