Hi to all, I'm a first time poster and new to this forum, but thanks to everyone on the excellent advice I have gotten so far. This is the first tile job of a shower pan, from bare joists up, that I have ever attempted and am usiing the walkthrough posted on the other pages that involves felt, deck mud, liner, sand mix, etc. The question I have is on the specific mix ratios and by what common names they may be called, that I am to use for the sloped bed and the layer I put on just under the thinset and tile. Would a standard mortar mix work for both (or either) of these sections? I'm having a tough time finding these ingredients at the local Lowes in my area (Seattle by the way). I have looked into doing the WEDI system but it's just way too cost prohibitive compared to the mud one. It also feels right as many years ago before becoming an electrician, I was involved in the masons apprenticeship. Feels like old times. Thanks in advance for info thats probably been posted a 1000 other times on this site.

Welcome to the forum.
The mix for the shower pans is made up of standard portland cement, masonry or construction sand and water.

The sand and portland are sold in bags and should be in the masonry aisle.

I personally don't use the mortar mixes but some others do. The mortar mixes are a little rich and need to be cut with extra sand. Knowing how much to add is the tricky part. That's why it's easier just to do the separate components in a 4 to 1 ratio or 5 to 1 ratio. IE: 4 parts sand to 1 part Portland and just enough water to form the mix into a ball without crumbling or leaving excess moisture on your hand when you make a ball.

I also would suggest you look into using a Schluter Kerdi drain and build your shower pan with that and the drypac mud bed (as described above) Go to the Schluter web site to see how it's done.

I have always used regular topping mix/sand mix right out of the bag. It works fine for me. Personally I think that the topping mix I get here is pretty lean to begin with. Mortar mix is much stickier and is used to mud the curb. However if you go with kerdi, then use cement board on the curb.

I'd second RC's advice. Get a Kerdi drain and enough kerdi for the shower pan. Then water proof with liquid membrane for the rest.

I would use the same ratio as randall, no need to purchase mortar in bags. We use a 4-1 ratio, we also use a electric mixer, but hand howing works just fine

I forgot to mention, no lime at all just cement

Did the base and it's now curing. Tricky getting the right slope, but I simply held a level across and used a tape measure to check. It all came out well. Next week part 2. THE LINER.

Good that you took the time to do a nice pre-slope but as long as you did do one, you did it right. Many times we see people
( even pros?) just put the liner flat on the plywood sub floor and then mud the base. Take your time and you'll be fine.

Heres another question for you guys. I put the preslope down on Tuesday and have let it cure all week. It feels like it could easily give up its material if I ran a trowel across the top. The slope turned out exactly 1/4" x 1' drop from all four corners, but I feel like its a base that with any extended water flow over it it can easily wash away. Granted thats just the preslope base and I know that the actual base 1-1/2" thick will have the liner under it and thinset and tile on top. But is this a naturally occuring characteristic to a 5 to 1 sand to portland mix? Am I overreacting or do I need a redo?

It can come out a little grainy at times. For the final slope, make sure you pack it down firmly with a wood float, then screed it off to the proper slope. After it's set for 30-45 minutes, slick over it with a steel trowel. This will sort of "seal" it off so it's not so grainy.

So I am having problems with corner and curb make up with a 40 mil liner. I'm sure everyone does as this is thick material. Wondering how crucial it is to have the corners stuffed in completely flat against the pre slope material. If it does than can I patch work some cuts together with the reccommended adhesive and overlap or is that a no-no. I realize that any time you cut or make a hole you're asking for problems, but with the funky angles of a neo angle configuration I really don't see any other way.