So the rock is tapped and mudded. The drywall is complete and painted. I have put on 3 heavy coats of Hydroban in entire shower enclosure and out on to the floor outside the curb. Next step another mud base about 2" thick on the shower pan floor and then the tiling begins! Tommorrow I'll be doing a flood test on the pan to test the Hydroban, but from what I'm seeing it should work out fine.

Now I'm really confused. Why are you putting another 2" over the existing pan that already has HydroBan on it?
Your pan should only have 1 layer of mud and a top coat of HydroBan if you used a clamp style drain with the divot method.
The only extra mud should be to fill the divot around the drain.

The Laticrete clamping drain spec and drawing is a little confusing as they show 2 separate layers of waterproofing around the drain. I think they show it that way to create one surface top coated layer in case a natural stone were to be used for the tile surface. This would prevent a possible bleed thru problem at the drain.
Their spec should only be at the drain, not the entire pan.

Once again I am caught before making an error. I will proceed as you say, but let me get this right. I am at the point where I am performing a flood test as we speak. So far it's been one hour and no problems so I'm draining it. What you are telling me is that the next step should be a mud base but only enough to accomadate the clamping drain. Does that mean I should slope it out into the field and not all the way to the shower wall? And, about how thick should I make the mud fill in the direct area around the drain? Thanks for the help.

Let me try to explain this without having to draw a picture.

FYI, all of this divot method could have been avoided if you had used a Schluter Kerdi Drain.

Since you used a clamp style drain fitting, you should have built the sloped mortar bed about 1-1/2" higher (at the drain) than the clamping flange, except for the area of the divot. The mortar bed then slopes out towards the walls and curb at a rise of 1/4" to the foot above the height you established at the drain.

The divot needs to have a slight radius at the outer top edge to allow a smooth transition for the application of the waterproofing. Make sure the mud bed has cured for a minimum of 3 days at 70 degrees before applying the HydroBan.
When applying the HydroBan around the base plate of the clamp drain you MUST avoid plugging up the weep area with the liquid waterproofing. When the HydroBan is dry in the divot area you then can finish installing the clamp ring.

Once the Hydroban is cured, place some pea gravel, aquarium gravel or tile spacers) around the drain to prevent the weepholes from being plugged when you pack mud into the divot. This mud is screeded to the slope of your pan.

As you can see from the above specification your pan is not constructed correctly. I would suggest you start over and incorporate a Kerdi drain into the pan. It's much easier and better than the clamp drain and divot method.