could anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong on this cut. this Is a look from the inside. I'm not sure how to frame were the wall meets up with the dam. It Is not flush for the durock to be fasten. are me angles off? Thanks.

sorry wrong picture new at this

ok I think I got the right photo

See if you can follow my drawing with the new stud locations.
The fill in pcs on the front have angle cuts on them and can be done a couple of different ways. They are a little hard to explain. Its easier to show someone but we can't do that here.

If you don't understand I'll try to explain it.

Sorry mrlen I couldn't get the text on the drawing to come out large enough.

The studs must be screwed together with 3-1/2" screws at the corner point on the inside edge where they touch.
Studs are perpendicular from the inside of the bottom plate.

RC you rock, that illustration was perfect. I just went downstairs to try that out and It will work. One more question my dam equals 26", If I put the two 2x4 on either side of the dam that will give me 20". Will that width be enough to get in and out of the shower? Thanks again Rc
Mrlen

Ideally your door opening should be min 24" to 26" max for a custom glass door. Measurements are from finished surfaces. IE: tile or marble jambs.

Can you enlarge your floor area?

thanks RC, for now I was just going with a shower curtain for the doorway. I think I could go bigger right now It's 40x40, I just dont want to get to clouse too the toilet, the toilet will be facing that wall how much space is reasonable from toilet to shower wall? Thanks

Mrlen, I had a similar situation on my personal home when it was being built. My original plan called for a 24" wide area for the toilet. My plumber recommended a minimum of 30". The toilet is next to the shower, like yours, and I couldn't take any more out of the shower space, so I took it from a nearby closet to get the 30" (I think we ended up with 31 1/2" in the end) and boy, am I glad I did. 24" is too small, by the time you hang a paper holder and all. Measure from the center of the toilet flange to the stud, and make sure it's 15 1/2". This allows 1/2" for the drywall or whatever is on the outside of the shower. I don't know what the code is in your area, but this seemed to give me plenty of room. If you need to move the toilet flange away from the shower wall, you can get an offset flange which will give you more room (can't remember if it's 1 1/2", or more) Hope this helps.

I just noticed in your post that you said the toilet is facing that wall. You'll probably need around 4' in front (flange to wall)

Thanks kman I have some pics that will explain better. you said four feet in front, as it stands I only have 40 1/2" from flange to wall that won't give me enough room?

[img=http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/482/imgp1216hr8.th.jpg] [img=http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/8561/imgp1215up7.th.jpg]

mrlen,

I notice that your shower drain is not centered or even close. This will create a steep slope at the far end of the shower floor. It appears to be 7-9" from the far wall, this means you will have an elevation rise of about 1" in the space of 8 " or so?

Luckily that area is not where you will be standing or walking? It's do-able, just remember that you will have to use a small size tile on the floor.

Jaz

hey jaz thanks for the reply I need all the input I can get before I start. From the far wall to center of drain it measures 14" will the slope be to drastic? I could move the drain but I'd rather not. And as far as my spacing from the center of toilet flange to shower wall what would be a sufficient space. Thanks alot everybody.

40" will probably get you by, it'll just be a little tight. You might go with a round bowl instead of elongated to give you a little more room. You want to be able to stand up from the toilet and not hit your head on the wall. You could take the toilet (if you have it) and set it on the flange with no wax or bolts and see what kind of space you'll have. I don't know what the code would be for your area, you might check with a local code enforcement or a licensed plumber. They usually have a "desired" clearance, and a "minimum" clearance. Personally I would test it, it's kind of a personal preference.

Looking at your pix a second time, would it be possible to rotate your toilet 90 degrees so that the back of it is against the wall on the left of the pic?

ya that's not going to work I thought of that too. It's 18" for the wall to the flange. Thanks kman, I'm gonna take the bowl out and place it on the flange to see how much clearence. Thanks again

I see you don't have any shower controls roughed in yet so heres a little tip. Try to re arrange your studs where the shower controls will be. Place the center of the controls between a stud opening, which is 14-1/2" It will make it alot easier to do the plumbing.

Thanks RC I will do that. Is It ideal to put the controls on the long walls or could I put it on the short wall? The long walls face the opening, but I don image alot of water coming out.

For a neo angle shower its best to keep the controls on the side walls adjacent to the door opening.

Thanks alot Rc for all your help!!