HI everyone,
I just fond this site earlier today and am grateful for the collective group of talent and knowledge that I have been reading from - so I thought I'd ask a few questions for anyone who'd care to answer.

We recently had a leaky pipe in our main bathroom in a 115 yr old farm house - so rather than just replace a wall that had some water damage - I am redoing the whole bathroom. It is very small mind you - 10x 6 in fact.

Here are my plans and questions:
1) my wife would like to use limestone to tile the wall and floor including the shower area. I have read all about the porosity of natyural stone and am not convinced that it is the way to go - even after sealing the stones and kerdi for the walls. I do like the look of it and would use it but don't have absolute faith in it lasting the long haul in the shower area.

2) We purchased a Maax shower kit - comes with glass doors and a base (like the one is a post here by Knucklez - except it ir rounded as opposed to flat.). I am using greenboard (although was initially inclined to use durock) with a layer of kerdi to cover the shower area.

3) I am planning to run the Kerdi from ceiling to floor with an over hang of 2" . Is this right and will it give me the protection I need from any seepage?

4) We are planning to tile the walls a little more than 1/2 way up in the areas outside of the sdhower and go floor to ceiling inside the shower. I just read that the tile (and I assume membrane as well) should go a minimum of 2 " outside fo the shower - is this correct?

I have all the product (except for the tiles )sitting in my storage room - I am just about finished ripping out the old walls and floor - so as of yet nothing is written in stone and would welcome andy thoughts and suggestions before I take the plunge.

Much appreciated,
Nick

yes Nick, you can use limestone in a shower. Limestone is very weather durable and there are many tiles out there in the same color scheme, so if you wanted a porcelain or ceramic you could find one easily. You would definately want to use Kerdi waterproofing. And even seal the stone or tiles and grout to head water off. A good ventilation fan is my best input. Wind dries moisture, especially in circular motion. 2" overlap is fine for Kerdi, remember to overlap from the top over the bottom. I would recommend waterproofing the ceiling also, its no less susceptible to moisture problems. I don't think its neccesary to waterproof past the door, but it would give you peice of mind.Good luck w/ the project.

Thanks Bradley,

I actually was thinking about changing our fan now that you mention fans - i will definitely do it. it has been here since before we bought the house and I imagine the newer ones must be better - either more effecient, more powerful - quiter or whathaveyou...

I am still debating the substrate that I will use behind the shower - If the kerdi is properly installed what advantage would I have using the backerboard as opposed to the greenboard? Is it just a question of it being mold resistant? Assuming no water is getting in - I guess this is the case?

Thanks again for your advice,
nick

The difference in substrate is cement board is stiffer and gives you peice of mind when you consider it does not weaken when wet. Greenboard is not waterproof when long term moisture is present or were to occur. cement products I beleive are the only way to go in showers. You should even insulate the water pipes to contain the condensation that will build in the wall cavity. I even glue(mortar) the cement sheets to the studs to fill the tiny gaps and make the walls more rigid between the studs and sheets.

New question here...
I ripped out the final items including the old shower - which was a shower kit with an acrylic base. There was nothing under - jut subfloor.
Should I build a cement base under The Maax unit - the manual says it is preferred - so I imagnie that means yes.

What do I use and how do I go about pouring it and mounting the shower base on it?
I did a search on this and couldn't come up with anything detailed enough to help me get going.

Thanks,
Nick

Not all shower bases require mortar but if the manufacturer suggest it I would do it.

The big problem is the amount you have to fill.
Any concrete or brick mortar shrinks while curring so a tight fit to the base may not happen. That in turn leaves a very small gap between the mortar and base. A squeak or popping sound may develop as you move around in the shower after it's curred.

I use medium bed thinset if the space is less than 1" or non shrink grout mortar if its over 1"

for the plastic shower base i definately recommend that you put mortar down. but make sure you put base down first and get the adjustable legs the right hight and level. very level.

then buy the cheapest mortar you can find (does walmart sell mortar?) and make a doughnut around your drain with it. it should be at least 4" away from the drain pipe, you don't want the mortar to touch this. the mortar should be build up as high as 1" above what the base would be.. so that when you drop the base down you flatten out the top of your mortar doughnut. also, i suggest you put some mortar in the corner, the 90' corner, so that it doesn't wobble. i found that if i put the base down and it was perfectly level and stuff.. and i stepped on the corner with both feet i could lift the base!! so i put mortar there to.

ok, now that you've gone crazy with the mortar..

i don't know what is with the MAAX instructions for the drain, but definately do NOT put the rubber seal above the base.. no, the rubber ring and the paper (friction) ring go below. on TOP of the base is only a silicon seal. if you put the rubber ring on top like the instructions say it will leak, guaranteed.

Knucklez

ps. i'm NOT a pro, so don't listen to anything i say

seems like you're pretty much on the right track. Just make sure you wait a few days (I'd say at least a week) before applying the sealer to the stone and grout. That way everyiting has time to cure. One thing that's nice about limestone that it's relatively easy to shape the edges of tiles with a rub stone or rough sharpening stone, so you can make your own bullnose edges etc.

With regards to setting mortar under the base - wouldn't you put it in all area?
How do you keep the mortar from getting into the drain?
Nick